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Si贸fok, Balaton: a collection of pub genres

Si贸fok, M眉ller's Hostel and its bar on Emerich K谩lm谩n promenade

Si贸fok had an entire collection of pub genres. After the first four stops the town had still more to offer. It was a rainy, grey Sunday afternoon. You would never guess,that this has been聽July. I was about聽to continue my discovery with real local pubs as long as possible, and only go to the party promenade after聽the very last decent citizen聽went to sleep. But till then, I asked some of them what they think about that highlighted walkway聽of theirs.

My next stop turned out to be a half-way destination between the fancy summer scene and the backstage everyday life.

The K谩lm谩n Imre (Emerich K谩lm谩n) promenade in Si贸fok - Pubtourist

It was on the second biggest shopping lane of Si贸fok which was named after a worldwide known聽Hungarian composer, Imre (“Emmerich”) K谩lm谩n聽who was born and partly raised in this town. His stunning looking statue can be found in the near Millenium park.

The statue of Emerich (Imre) K谩lm谩n in Si贸fok, in the Milenium Park - Pubtourist

Unlike his famous “big brother”, the Pet艖fi, the K谩lm谩n Imre promenade didn’t have a direct connection to Lake Balaton’s shore, neither big party places.

I was pleased enough to find this open air bar, even with bar chairs on the pavement after a wide variety of bazaar vendors.聽

 

Si贸fok, M眉ller's Hostel and its bar on Emerich K谩lm谩n promenade

It belonged to the M眉ller’s hostel (402 stop, 5. Si贸fok stop). I stopped here for a drink, coffee and even to have a normal Sunday lunch after the recent appetizer of two small p谩linkas in H枚rpincs.

The coffee and Mediterran chicken of M眉llers hostel in Si贸fok, Balaton - Pubtourist

The boss, Herr M眉ller may sounds German or Austrian, but he was Hungarian. His friend, the current pop up cook, Peti, also from Hungarian roots, lived indeed in Vienna. His Mediterran chicken was delicious enough, but he was more proud of his hamburger.

The hamburger of M眉llers hostel, Si贸fok, Balaton - Pubtourist

He told me, that few minutes ago聽a family from New York sat on these chairs and they said that it was the burger of their lives. I may be聽an easy catch, but I got聽curious enough to return that day. If you are a new to this topic, you better know, that our national common consciousness still preserves the haunting image of the socialist era’s infamous beach hamburgers from frozen low quality beef patty.聽Peti’s version聽was delicious, the sauce as well, matching rather the current years of Hungarian gourmet hamburgers and had no connection to the dark mutual past of Lake Balaton and hamburger.聽In addition he was telling so passionately about the the pub life of Vienna too that he made me motivated to put this city聽on the Pubtourist 2017 bucket list. Speaking of German speakers: seven guys ordered a round of seven beers and seven palinkas next to me, and after the same with Unicum.

M眉ller's hostel in Si贸fok - indeed used as a bar

For them this avenue became a bigger party place than for the rest of the shoppers. It was good to camp here for a while on the comfy chairs, accompanied with friendly conversation but I went on, like I always do.

The next stop I spotted聽close to the Si贸 canal

The Si贸 canal and a Si贸fok fountain - Pubtourist

and to this once legendary old music club聽(today more of an after party place).

The once legendary fl枚rt club in Si贸fok, Balaton - Pubtourist

A big Drink bar label was screaming at me.

Clock in Si贸fok, Balaton - Pubtourist

Being a “gloomsy sunday”, only three people were sitting on the terrace. An older man was reading newspaper and two friends in their thirties were chatting over some juices. The place was called Clock Caf茅. Inside聽I found a more classy and sophisticated聽interior, pure and simple elegance.聽

The interior of Clock Caf茅 in Si贸fok, Balaton - Pubtourist

There were some clocks as part of聽the decoration indeed, but far not as聽many, as in the Budapest pub with the same name.

The clocks of Clock Caf茅 in Si贸fok, Balaton - Pubtourist

A 28 years old, blonde, local girl was on duty聽in the bar. I asked her what she is thinking of Pet艖fi promenade. She personally didn’t like it. She accepts that it belongs to the聽town already, but in her opinion is more of a matchmaker聽when you are around 18. – Si贸fok is more authentic in the wintertime – she said – then you can really see how the local people are. If she should choose only on of Si贸fok’s venues to keep, it would Clock, where she works. It existed for 15 years when I was there. For me it was nothing special for the first sight, but I admit that can come handy, when someone is looking for a decent calm and clean spot聽around.

Clock Caf茅 from inside in Si贸fok, Balaton - Pubtourist

I was furthermore very interested to hear more opinions from local people about Pet艖fi promenade. Don’t get me wrong, I am not definitely against it. When I saw it for the first time, I even was impressed and I had a quite good time there once or twice, but for me is very interesting to get a glimpse how residents of an “amphibian”聽city (<big difference between summer and winter) live together in the tourist season with the overgrowing number of visitors and all the units and phenomenons focusing on them. In the same street I could hear a young girl, more or less 20 years old, complaining to her visiting friend that the downtown of Si贸fok is this much and over! She was telling her that in summer it is still okay, when the “Promande” is on – this is it about: no superiority, only ages, preferences, point of views.

To be continued…

Previous posts in the series:

1-聽Si贸fok backstage – The Daily Pub Life of Hungary’s Summer Capital

2 -Si贸fok backstage #2 – The Daily Pub Life of Hungary’s Summer Capital – L贸g贸 脺veg and H枚rpincs

 

 

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